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| A (not so) sunset session by the beach |
Last time I went to Bali was in 2017 when my office sent me to a workshop program somewhere in the middle of Legian's hassle. Going there again was never an option since the fares of domestic flight have increased up to the top limit and we're charged for checked baggages. For someone who would fly mostly for leisure, I wouldn't pay such amount to fly let alone for the baggages. But it's been two years and I have never missed Bali this much, thus I decided to book a return flight there two weeks ago.
Bali was unusually chilly at that time. Australia's winter apparently brought cold weather to the surface of Bali. This is new but this is ... perfect. I swear there's nothing more lovely than being here on sunny days when the temperature dropped below normal. It reminds me much about spring in Holland (without the canals of course).
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| This narrow gap below the cavern leads our way to the coast |
SULUBAN BEACH
After having a late lunch in Nasi Ayam Bu Mangku, we made a trip to the seaside to watch the sun sets. Torn between going to Seminyak or Suluban, I chose the latter because: 1) By weekend Seminyak would be too crowded, I don't like crowds; 2) I have never been to Suluban before, so Suluban it is.
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| No angry tides here at the coastline as the reefs broke the waves from afar, I guess this makes Suluban a children-friendly beach |
Suluban beach is located near Uluwatu, South Kuta. Taking the same route heading to the famous Uluwatu Temple, it took us an hour and couple minutes bike-ride from Seminyak to reach the beach. This place is --how do I say this?-- magically, peacefully, hidden behind its neighboring cramped tourist spots such as Uluwatu Temple and defeaning fancy bars standing on the top of the rock. No ticket required here for as long as I can remember, I only paid 5000 Rupiah for parking fee. Bad news: the beach is located quite far below the parking ground. Good news: they have stairs there. We need to go down the cliff by the stairs for about 10 minutes walk. Going down is easy, but if you have some breathing issues, going up is something you need to think deliberately because it'll be a wee bit more challenging than it seems to be. No pain, no gain, huh?
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| Limestone formations along the coast |
Suluban beach sits like a surprise to us who's willing to 'unfold' the cliff face. At the edge of the stairs lies narrow gap where I could snoop the beautiful sky and overhear sound of the waves. As we reached bottom level of the cavern, I noticed that this shady spot is a perfect shelter to those who didn't want their skin be exposed by Bali's scorching heat (Sun can be pretty intimidating here!).
The coastline wasn't as long as beaches in Seminyak's but it's more quiet here and that made a good deal to me. From far I enjoyed the view of pro surfers cruising giant waves back and forth. It made me jealous to see how easy it seemed to them ripping curled stream as if they're dancing on the floor. Girl, I can't even dance properly. But I can walk on the shore with a sight of wonderful sunset scenes on a reasonably warm afternoon with person I love to be around with.
After a short (but quite challenging) walk, we agreed to pay a visit to a place on the top side of the cavern. I insisted on going to Single Fin because I've been there before and I thought it's a good choice. But someone spared me a better option. Up and up we hiked the cliff then roamed the alleyway packed with cafes and shops owned by locals. It's bitter to see how empty and deserted the shops and cafes were but I guess it was natural when Instagram-friendly places like Single Fin started to flourish the market. Not too long after the alleyway walk, we reached the end of the cliff. There it was, a cafe named 'Edge'.
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| The view we got from above |
The place is literally on the edge of the cliff where best view of vast South Bali's sea served. The bartender (except he didn't quite formulate drinks behind the bar, but still ...) sold cheap beers and soft drinks and chips (Happytos! because we bought one! it's the only snack they had there hahaha), he also was loud and basically talked to everyone. His voice and laughter raced with intense upbeating sound came from EDM playlist he set in the cafe. Eventhough it's weekend, the cafe wasn't so stuffed thus we were lucky enough to secured hot seats facing directly to the sea. I'm not gonna lie, the view was 95% better from where I sat at that time. From above, I could see clear water became teal, turqoise-y and gradually sunk in cobalt blue. To be honest, I enjoyed this combination of staring scenic view, chugging cheap drink, and listening to white noise behind at once. It's sweet and serene at the same time.
What a time to be alive. I'll be back for shore! :D
